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There seems to be a misunderstanding about the disassembly of this connector. You do NOT need special tools or even a wrench to undo this. It can EASILY be undone by hand but you have to understand how to do it. The colored ring is designed to spin counter clockwise but not clockwise. This means you can grip the shell when you tighten the connector up but when you try to undo it, the ring will spin round and round preventing you from getting a grip of the shell. All you need is a rubber glove to grip the entire shell especially the end part. Then you can apply enough torque to get past the internal locking sleeve mechanism. It is easier than using the tool.

Where do you find the logic in using two expensive tools to service a connector in the field? This is rip-off mentality! Shame on you for daring to do it!

Simple is the best !

hello equipment good my no way to find the right plug to prevent disconnection and there are people to find the problem, I can also make video for demonstration to see the problem my I doubt that someone will help me I am in France thank you anyway

Can we share main LR in live shows with this interface???

Warum muss man immer alles verschlimmbessern? Die alte Version war deutlich besser. Ein 8er Torx ist kein Standardwerkzeug, dazu noch ein 22 mm Gabelschlüssel.

Terrible new design that requires expensive tools (HTLACB and HTLACA) to dissemble if/when needed. These tools are small and could easily get lost especially on a large job site.

Bravo.. Now I need another 100€ to open the 6€ connector. Fail!!!

HTLACA＆HTLACBが高額過ぎる、何時からノイトリックはボッタクリ企業になったんだ。

Lockable chuck and T8 torx will lose you a lot of customers.Imagine a wrong polarity connection and not beeing able to open the connector and fix that.These are terrible “improvements” for the new design.

Well done Neutrik you have successfully produced a really good component that will loose you some customers because you feel you do not owe your customers anything. I for one will not be buying these. There are times on the road you may need to rework a cable for what ever reason and I do not want anything which will take time to disassemble due to a locking system without thought. I rather buy third party. RIDICULOUS

Eieiei, benutzt doch bitte Aderendhülsen für feindrähtige Leiter!

Nota bene : à voir cette vidéo on pourrait croire qu'Il faut environ 1000 € d'outillage pour câbler ce connecteur ! 🙂 En fait Neutrik devraient faire savoir au grand public qu'on a juste besoin d'un tournevis Torx T8 et d'une pince coupante, tout le monde n'est pas millionnaire ! Nota bene: watching this video, you'd think you'd need about $1120 worth of tools to wire this connector! 🙂 Neutrik should let the general public know that all you need is a Torx T8 screwdriver and a pair of wire cutters - not everyone is a millionaire! 🙂

Ist der schwarze Ring oberhalb der blauen Kappe austauschbar gegen andere Farbringe wie z.B. bei XLR-Steckern? Oder ist das einfach ein Teil des Gehäuses?

Can these be hand tightened like the FX or is the torque wrench essential?

👍🏾

Can I get a list of all the tools used in this video?

how to you remove the locking part if you're done the wiring wrong? it's locked!!!

Wish it was dc rated, even if it couldn't be disconnected live

Excellence

Muita tecnologia.

Gibt es auch ein Werkzeug / Video für den powerCON TRUE1 TOP ?

What effect have i to use to create the tone of a Mogami 2524 with 8m at 130F/m?

Why so gently

CAN THIS TIMBRE PLUG BE USED AT THE AMP INSTEAD OF THE GUITAR?

Great product, in particular for the PRO Line - since it allows not only Line, but Mic input +48V and gain control. The only disadvantage is the rather high-end price.

Tried them and they failed. They don't short consistenly like they're supposed to when unplugged. Sometimes they're silent, sometimes they're just like a normal plug. On the same guitar.

now I know.

素晴らしい！ メンテナンス性も高いのですね！

cool video

I've had 2 of them and both stopped working after few months. Wasted money.

I make a line of guitar cords called GUITARTEC AUTO CORDS that automatically cut the signal the instant you pull the plug from the guitar. This is the only style of guitar cord I make- I do NOT make non-switched regular instrument cords, mic, speaker cables or effect jumpers. So you know, these switched 1/4" plugs ALWAYS go into the instrument, never into the amp. Each cord's other end is always a normal non-switched straight or 90º 1/4" phone plug of the same brand as the instrument side. I make these cords using high quality Mogami cable and the customer's choice of either the German-made red Neutrik SilentPlug (either straight or 90º) as seen in this video OR an Australian-made Amphernol SwitchPlug (either straight or 90º). HERE'S THEIR PROS AND CONS These plugs both use a spring-loaded switch that surrounds the 1/4" sleeve of the plug. When inserted into a guitar's output jack, the switch automatically gets pushed in, thus, allowing the signal flow from the guitar to the amp. NEUTRIK SILENT PLUG TECH INFO: www.neutrik.com/en/neutrik/products/plugs-jacks/plugs/professional-1-4-plugs/silentplug AMPHENOL SWITCH PLUG TECH INFO: www.amphenolaudio.com/products/14-2/t-series-switch-plug/ Both these manufacturers use a 360º plastic cable strain relief that evenly bares down on the cord when the plug's back shell is screwed onto the body of the plug. This ensures the solder connections are not stressed when the cord is pulled or yanked for any reason. The Amphenol Switchplug uses a standard spring-loaded self-cleaning blue switch with a metal body. The Neutrik SilentPlug uses an internally sealed magnetic reed switch with a red silicone cover over a metal body. The Neutrik's switch is much easier to push in than the Amphenol, where the Amphenol can sometimes pop itself out or work its way out of an old, worn out or cheap jack due to its tight spring. Also, in some cases, acoustic guitars that have end-pin jacks that aren't adjusted to protrude enough past the screw-on strap button will not be able to push in either plug's switch, regardless how well you push the plug into the jack. A simple jack adjustment is then necessary. These plugs are not infallible nor indestructible. Due to the easy push-in reed switch on the red Neutrik plug, just grabbing the plug to insert it into a guitar can accidentally cause the switch to push in allowing a loud amp to suddenly be ON. This is precisely what these plugs are supposed to protect you against. It has never happened to me with the Amphenol plug. Also, they must be treated with respect and they'll give years of excellent service. Inspect them often and keep them clean! The Neutrik's reed switch is not affected by contaminates, whereas the spring switch in the Amphenol could possibly be affected by dirt, but at least you can clean it with electric motor cleaner or even WD-40 if necessary. Here's a possible deal breaker; The Neutrik 90º plug has a defect that Neutrik swears is "fixed", but I've seen no evidence of this. For some reason, the male portion of the 90º Neutrik SilentPlug loosens from the plug's body over time, allowing it to cock at a slight angle and jam the switch in either the open or closed position. You need to physically straighten the plug with your thumb and the switch starts to work normally again. Neutrik needs to ensure the male portion cannot move AND also chamfer the inside of the switch's front edge so it can't dig into the gold plating. FYI... this issue only involves the Neutrik 90º SlientPlug, NOT their straight SilentPlug. One last negative about the Neutrik red silicone covering. I've seen the silicone creep forward after many inserts into guitars. The silicone will all of a sudden not allow the plug to be fully seated into the jack until you push it back on to the body of the plug. There will be momentary confusion of thinking the switch is somehow broken until you look closely and see it's just the silicone in the way. OTHER THINGS TO KNOW... A gold-plated plug is only useful if it's inserted into a jack that has gold-plated contacts inside, otherwise, there are no benefits. Plus, the gold is only microns thick, so you can bet after some use, it will be worn off. guitarelectronics.com/switchcraft-1-4-gold-guitar-jack-w-1-4-threaded-collar/ The Neutrik SilentPlug is harder to assemble than the Amphenol SwitchPlug Nuetrik and Amphenol are not the only automatic plugs on the market. Switchcraft has made them since the 70's. www.fullcompass.com/prod/023686-switchcraft-182-1-4-ts-m-cable-mount-silent-plug-screw-terminals?dfw_tracker=36058-023686&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8vXexezY6wIViIbACh0ehQ12EAQYAiABEgI6svD_BwE REAN, which is a division of Neutrik, also makes a cheap switch plug; www.fullcompass.com/prod/234454-neutrik-nys224s-1-4-ts-rean-cable-connector Lastly, (and I say this reluctantly b/c this is REALcrap) Guitar Fetish makes a cheap Auto-Switching Cord: www.guitarfetish.com/20-ft-Auto-Switching-Guitar-Cable-Noiseless-Anodized-ends-Brass-Tip_p_1309.html Do not, repeat... DO NOT let me catch anyone using this cable at a gig. The guitar Police will come get you!

OMG. Calm down. Wows

Great demo thanks!

so amazing

A+ sound design.

Works great😊😊

+ExperienceNeutrik you are real idiots uploading at 240p! Everything is recorded at least in colour 480p since what 1965? With a modern camera you should have been able to upload at least 720p then those of use listening through reference headphones and monitors could have HD audio to actually hear detail....

For all the naysayers, this system is shit clearly but IT IS what I invented years ago and I mine worked but the switch was external . This is something that should of always been designed right from the beginning of guitar cabling, but some dumb person asked the question and the guys in the Lab coats who could not change a tire to save their life IGNORED that dumb person. My system works because it uses a simple transistor LOL. which makes it impractical for unplugging and plugging all the time due to the size, but it did work and still works. It looks like we are inventing new things to fix the things from the past . This is the danger when you don't listen to people, 50 years later "shit that janitor who cleaned the Lab back in the 60's was right after all". We are now fixing and inventing to fix what was invented decades ago. Guitar cables in my opinion along with Guitars and Audio equipment was always made with the mentality of "For pro's only". These electronics were never designed with the consumer mind to the electrical system isolation, filtering, protection, sound fidelity etc. It is 2017 and we still need 1930's ISO transformers to clean up hum and ground loops. I am sorry to say it but that is joke for all Audio Equipment companies. All these technicians and Engineers and we are still having to buy band aids for simple things. Look inside your Amp , Laptop, Computer, Camera, Digital interfaces, you will find components from the 1970's still being used just smaller. These components like Resistors, Caps, Diodes all should of been phased out decades of ago and we should of gone to simple Phase switching for most of those components. Sadly the consumer is always a decade behind the current best tech.

Greetings to all, help please help,,, Excellent product, The cable has 3 wires, I need to weld and convert to 2 lines, but when joining 2 gives me noise what should I do ?, how to solder the cables?

ты крутой

Does this add resistance, capacitance, or both? I had a cable that had an intermittent break in it. It sounded awesome and I couldn't duplicate the sound with any other cable... The copper was hanging in by a thread. The intermittent problem got too bad though, so I cut the cable and resoldered it... It destroyed the sound! I bought a new, identical cable, and it still didn't sound the same. I think my broken cable had some magic to it... Will this make a cable sound similar, or should I build a pedal box that basically passes a single strand through it?

no quality

shit

#PS

#ps

#ps

Excellent....from NNB

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